You should be aware that when doing grey coverage if our clients are a 6 level or lighter we sometimes will need to add warmth to get optimum coverage.
The way we manufacture means the colour could be warm or cool based depending on the final colour we want. +Plus colours appear cool because of the extra colour molecules in them. So if your client doesn't have any natural warmth in their natural base we suggest adding a Divina.One Golden Blonde Shade to your mix.
Always measure colour and oxidant exactly, never guess. This makes a massive difference to your colour result, coverage and longevity of tone.
Always use Divina.Oxi with Divina colour. Our oxidant is a different consistency than other brands and is formulated to give you the best results.
Use less +PLUS colour in your formula - treat the +PLUS's like an additive to your coffee, the +PLUS being your milk or sugar for example.
To get perfect coverage on lighter levels we automatically reach for +PLUS colours, they are designed for this but on resistant hair using too much +PLUS can actually reduce the amount of coverage we get on some hair types...why?! +Plus colours are cool, this is because they contain extra colour molecules to intensify the colour and make them deeper on the hair. On some hair types, these cooler colours don't cover white hair 100% on their own.
The reason for this is the natural undercoat (underlying pigment) of the hair is needed for the colour to sit on top of it, if there undercoat is missing, applying a plus colour can make the end result translucent. If we add a small amount of warmth to the colour (even if the client wants a cool colour result) this will simply become the undercoat for the colour.
On a level 8 and 9 the desired undercoat is golden or copper gold. Therefore, we would add 8.3, 8.34 or 9.3 to the colour formula.
Just a quick note here I’ve found that not touching the natural amount and adding Plus+ into the target shade works really well so that the amount of natural isn’t compromised in grey coverage. Eg. 15g 8 and 7.5g 8.3 and 7.5g 8+.
Your client has natural base 7 hair with 80% resistant white hair. The desired colour result is 8.
Use: 15g 8 and 15g 8.3 and 15g 8+ with 45g 20vol.
Another option is to add a tiny amount of 0.33 to your formula remember by adding gold to your formula, you won’t actually affect the final result of the colour, this gold will simply become the undercoat of the hair and the colour will sit on top. An example formulation for this could be: 30g 8 and 28g 8+ and 2g 0.33 with 60g 20vol
Mixing: When using +Plus in your formula, always use 1:1 mixing ratio (60g colour + 60g oxidant).
Development time: When using Plus develop the colour for 35-45 minutes for maximum coverage. It’s vital that your development time is correct for covering white hair. This will allow the oxidant to open the cuticle and the colour molecule to develop on time.
Use plenty of product. Just like any other brand, when covering white hair always ensure you have applied plenty of colour to the hair
Important Points For Consideration When Colouring:
Colour brands can have coverage issues with customer use of root coverup sprays, these are generally heavy in waxes. It is best to wash out of the hair before colouring.
Pre-softening is a really quick and easy way to sort coverage issue. This can be done by applying neat tint to the hair then colour mixed 1:1 on top or liquid 20vol applied with cotton to root area and dried in, this takes only a few minutes to do but can make a huge difference.
The reason this works so well is it takes the hard work of the oxidant opening the freshly keratinised cuticles and allows the colour to penetrate the hair more easily which means the colour will work more efficiently and often negates the lack of pigment in the natural hair as they colour is there longer working.